For a creative director whose stylings generally land squarely in the future, it would seem Nicolas Ghesquière was focused on a much more contemporary issue this season: American politics. And yet, the first look to hit the runway featuring “Vote” across the chest was both a nod to Election Day as well as forward momentum into life after November 3rd. The collection’s Jane Jetson silhouettes and modular accessories hastened a glimpse at what we’ll be wearing come spring.
When every brand is redefining what fashion means in a world mid-pandemic and reckoning with racial justice, not only does the runway require proper social distance, but designers to distance themselves from the past. According to Louis Vuitton’s show notes, the collection was “a sensitive zone that erases gender and promises exponential creative possibilities.” Ghesquiére admitted that this is just the beginning of exploring non-binary designs at the famed Parisian house. He posed the questions: “What does an in-between garment look like? What kind of cut can dissolve masculine and feminine? What wardrobe might s/he look good in?”
In his journey to create a fluid collection, he pulled heavily from skate culture, both literally—the actual word was tagged across more than a few shirts—and figuratively. Baggy pants were cinched at the waist, not unlike actual skaters who string their trousers up with shoelaces, utility jackets reminiscent of Carhartt hoodies were tossed over slinky dresses, and shorts were cut at the knee in racy graphic prints, akin to something you’d spot on teenagers hanging around the outskirts of Tompkins Square Park.
The show’s attendees, who met CDC guidelines with required masks, included the likes of Alicia Vikander, Venus Williams, Laura Harrier, and more. Given the fact that the brand’s roster of influencers includes actual skaters—Evan Mock had his own likeness displayed up Louis Vuitton flagship stores and he walked Virgil Abloh’s runway in 2019 —so we wouldn’t be surprised if the brand continues this narrative. For now, let’s start saving up for those skate shirts and hope we don’t get called posers.