OLIVIER GRASSET THE GEN XDr. Collectors, FW 2020 collection.
© Photo courtesy of Press Office.Just as counting the rings in a tree trunk will reveal its vintage, observing the layers of reference and technique in the clothing of Los Angeles-based Dr. Collectors indicates the length and breadth of the human experience that has led to their creation. US militaria, traditional Japanese attire, French workwear, hand-loomed denim, and hand-applied indigo, tie-dye and garment dye are all ingredients that suffuse these meticulously casual and powerfully Californian (much more Marin than Malibu) pieces. That (French)man is Olivier Grasset, 65, who alongside his wife Beatrice and son Teddy created Dr. Collectors as the sum culmination of his life’s odyssey in clothing. As Grasset growls down the phone during his morning drive, this journey began as a teenage jeans fiend in his Provence hometown of Orange, where he began to collect vintage. Contacts with a distributor in Marseille who was sitting on a trove of then under-valued deadstock selvedge Levi’s allowed him to open a store, named Edouard. After three years he was approached to work for a pioneering designer denim brand (alongside Fiorucci) named Liberto, whose chief innovation was stone-washing. Then, in 1986, he began a 13-year stint as designer for the prime ’90s-kid grail brand for French-accented denimwear infused with early hip-hop influence that is Chipie.(Continues)ARCHIE ALLED-MARTINEZ THE MILLENNIALA shot from Alled-Martinez’s FW 2020 collection.
© Photos @ignazolozano.Gently remind Barcelona-born, London-taught and Paris-based Archie M. Alled-Martinez that he is a millennial, and he scoffs. “Ha! I suppose so. But I feel really… old!” Old? This young designer patently isn’t, although it’s fair to say that since graduating from Central Saint Martins three years ago he’s experienced as much as others would count themselves lucky to in a decade.“Yes, it was a bit odd. A bit strange. The whole thing was quite surreal, and it all happened very fast.” What happened was that Alled-Martinez’s degree-honed signature knitwear earned him the LVMH Prize for Graduates in 2018, by which time he was already – in part thanks to mentorship from Sarah Mower – in touch with several Parisian houses. The perfect fit seemed Clare Waight Keller’s emerging team at Givenchy, which he joined for a year. This full immersion in a corporate luxury house led to his meeting Italian…