Courtesy of the Brands; Coach/Juergen Teller, Kwaidan Editions/Léa Dickely
Style Points is a weekly column about how fashion intersects with the wider world.
This summer, I spent a lot of my time on the phone, chatting with designers and other fashion people about what they thought the future of fashion might hold. One of the most common refrains, which will not surprise anyone who’s been following recent industry discourse, was that seasons no longer matter. Many of those I spoke to said traditional fashion weeks are no longer working for them, and that they want to release collections more in line with their own whims.
And now that time is a flat circle, those of us on the other end of the exchange—the customers—are feeling that way too. This isn’t a brand-new phenomenon, of course—it’s reflected in the see-now, buy-now craze that hit a few years back and the popularity of reissues by brands from Prada to Marc Jacobs. As Sloane Crosley observed in the pages of ELLE earlier this year, the nostalgia window is getting smaller and smaller as celebrities re-wear recent vintage and we all scour The Real Real and Depop for fresh grails. Amid the urgency of the sustainability movement and the rise of upcycled brands that have helped us look at old clothes in a new way, the old fashion-victim prohibition against clothes that were “so last season” was already, thankfully, feeling tired.
But COVID and time at home has definitely accelerated the process. I’m sure I’m not alone in rooting around in the recesses of my closet and finding things that seem to, once again, make sense in my 2020 wardrobe. From the costume designs I did for a production of Heartbreak House in college—hybrids of chopped-up wedding dresses and military gear scrounged from an emporium called Dollar a Pound—to my uncle’s FDNY sweatshirt emblazoned with his firehouse number, everything (a little bit) old is new again. To use the well-worn parlance of the 2008 recession, we’re all shopping our closets once more.
And judging from Spring 2021 thus far, designers seem to be on a mind-meld with the rest of us. At Versace, the Trésor de la Mer prints from spring 1992 found new life, while Miuccia Prada’s much-talked-about linkup with Raf…